alignment of blade in contractor saw

like_2_fish · Joined: 26 Feb 2008 Posts: 1

Hello. Has anyone had the problem of the blade being lined up to .003 when
it is all the raised. Then when the blade is lowered it is .020 out of
alignment. Anybody know how to fix it? The saw is a Delta contractor saw,
model 36-451.

Archived from group: rec>woodworking

DonkeyHody · Joined: 04 Aug 2007 Posts: 57

On Feb 25, 7:28 pm, wrote:
> Hello. Has anyone had the problem of the blade being lined up to .003 when
> it is all the raised. Then when the blade is lowered it is .020 out of
> alignment. Anybody know how to fix it? The saw is a Delta contractor saw,
> model 36-451.

I had sort of the same problem with a Grizzly contractor's saw. I
could get the blade lined up all nice and parallel to the miter slots,
but when I tilted the blade and returned it back upright, it wouldn't
be parallel anymore. The problem was slack in the half-moon sector
castings in the tilting mechanism. I fixed my problem by purchasing a
Unisaw.

DonkeyHody
"Even an old blind hog finds an acorn every now and then."

B A R R Y · Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 441

like_2_fish@hotmail.com wrote:
> Hello. Has anyone had the problem of the blade being lined up to .003 when
> it is all the raised. Then when the blade is lowered it is .020 out of
> alignment. Anybody know how to fix it? The saw is a Delta contractor saw,
> model 36-451.
>

Back when I had my Jet CS, I used one of these to align it perfectly:

dcamron71 · Joined: 15 Jan 2008 Posts: 11

Absolutely. Walk around behind your saw and bump the motor a few
times to see how quickly your saw gets out of alignment. That's one
of the big differences between a contractors saw and a cabinet saw.
Contractors saws go out of alignment easily. My problem went away
when I bought a General cabinet saw. It came back when somebody stole
it and I had to pull out my 40 year old contractors saw again.

I'd suggest you google the model number along with "alignment". Maybe
you'll find a useful discussion on the problem. My first instinct
would be that your blade is just not at 90 degrees when your lowering
it.

Pat Barber · Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 77

It's a common problem with contractor saws in general.

It will require a few adjustments, but it will likely fail
again.

You are going to need the written instructions on how
to align a contractor saw from the Black & Darker web site.
Search on alignment instructions.. oh hell.. here it is..

http://support.dewalt.com/cgi-bin/dewalt.cfg/php/enduser/fattach_get.php?p_sid=dv_LtiZi&p_accessibility=0&p_redirect=&p_tbl=9&p_id=3553&p_created=1181247391&p_olh=0

You are also going to need a TS Aligner and probably a

http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html .

The TS ALigner can used for many other things, so
buy one now for this project.

http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsjrlite.htm

like_2_fish@hotmail.com wrote:
> Hello. Has anyone had the problem of the blade being lined up to .003 when
> it is all the raised. Then when the blade is lowered it is .020 out of
> alignment. Anybody know how to fix it? The saw is a Delta contractor saw,
> model 36-451.
>
>

Frank Boettcher · Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 153

On Tue, 26 Feb 2008 18:42:36 GMT, Pat Barber
wrote:

>
>You are going to need the written instructions on how
>to align a contractor saw from the Black & Darker web site.
>Search on alignment instructions.. oh hell.. here it is..
>
>http://support.dewalt.com/cgi-bin/dewalt.cfg/php/enduser/fattach_get.php?p_sid=dv_LtiZi&p_accessibility=0&p_redirect=&p_tbl=9&p_id=3553&p_created=1181247391&p_olh=0
>

A good instruction, but not mentioned and important, if your trunnion
bracket mounting screws have washers, replace them. If washer faced
screws, replace them. The clearance holes are larger than would
normally be needed just for attachment because they are needed for the
adjustment. With so large a hole, the washers/washerface tends to
become slightly coned into the hole and will have memory trying to go
back to where they came from when you tighten up.

Frank

>>
>>

Pat Barber · Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 77

I wish I had known that a few years back when my
1999 model got out of whack. Those are nice saws
but a pain in the ass to align correctly.

I acquired a 34-350 and restored it. It makes
anything today look very pitiful.

Mine is a 1966 and it came wired 220 single phase....

I paid $175 and it ran the day I got it home.

It came from a school auction and had been used
as a work table more than anything else.

Here is a picture:

http://home.att.net/~mboceanside/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-639331.html

That outfeed and the top can hold an entire sheet of plywood
with nothing off the table.

Here is perspective against the contractor saw..

http://home.att.net/~mboceanside/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-638867.html

Frank Boettcher wrote:

> On Tue, 26 Feb 2008 18:42:36 GMT, Pat Barber
> wrote:
>
>
>
>>You are going to need the written instructions on how
>>to align a contractor saw from the Black & Darker web site.
>>Search on alignment instructions.. oh hell.. here it is..
>>
>>http://support.dewalt.com/cgi-bin/dewalt.cfg/php/enduser/fattach_get.php?p_sid=dv_LtiZi&p_accessibility=0&p_redirect=&p_tbl=9&p_id=3553&p_created=1181247391&p_olh=0
>>
>
>
> A good instruction, but not mentioned and important, if your trunnion
> bracket mounting screws have washers, replace them. If washer faced
> screws, replace them. The clearance holes are larger than would
> normally be needed just for attachment because they are needed for the
> adjustment. With so large a hole, the washers/washerface tends to
> become slightly coned into the hole and will have memory trying to go
> back to where they came from when you tighten up.
>
> Frank
>
>
>
>>>
>

TS alignment I recently purchased a new TS so I had to align the rip fence and check blade alignment to miter track. I pulled out my trust TS-aligner (see my review below) and I was done in no time. Not a single test cut needed! And I KNOW I am dead balls accurate. I

bandsaw wheel alignment Hey all; My (inherited) bandsaw has got me somewhat concerned. When the blade is top dead centre on the upper wheel, it's right on the edge of the lower one. Moving it to the back of the upper wheel will almost but not quite centre it on the lower wheel.

Vega Fence changes alignment when locked I have a Vega Fence that came on an old saw I got from Craigslist. One thing I've noticed is that when I lock the fence in place it changes its alignment relative to the miter slots. I have it so that when tight its perfectly parallel so it's not really a

what blade should I look for? I´m looking for a suitable blade for a handheld circular saw. I mostly cut plywood up to 3/4 inch thick. I´d like a blade that leaves a smooth cut, clean edges. I know there isn´t a perfect blade, but what blade would be the best choice for clean cuts in

Cabinet or contractor style Have a low end Delta TS. Other then it's underpowered, has done ok. Out of the box it was right. Need mo' power. Looked at Griz 444Z, and for $150/200 could get a hybrid. A bit more, a cabinet saw. Just what makes one style, contractor, hybrid or cabi