pre-wire home - best practices?

stuck · Joined: 02 Jan 2008 Posts: 1

Hi,
I'm just starting to wire a new home and was wondering if there is a
document covering best practices. I'm going to install audio distribution,
home automation (insteon at this point), home theatre, security cameras,
multiple computer network spots etc.

I've considered making dual runs of Cat6 to most locations as that seems
most flexible but the baluns are certainly expensive. An alarm installer
suggested running 3 RG59 cables to the HT projector and 14 gauge speaker
wire to all speaker runs.

Any thoughts would be appreciated or pointers to handy documents.

Thanks.

Archived from group: comp>home>automation

John J. Bengii · Joined: 22 Dec 2007 Posts: 74

Don't bother with rg59 cables. Use RG-6 which is capable of satelite
signal bandwidth also. Same connections.

Dual cat5e (I think will handle 1Gbit) is a good idea. Just install
plaster rings and staple a loop above it on the studs. Dummy plate the
plaster rings off after drywall installation. If you ever need them,
pull out the cable from the stud cavity and put a connector on both
ends for use. If you don't ever use them, it will only cost you the
wire and plaster ring (about $0.79). Leav lots of cable in the wall
cavity for a direct connection to your entertainment server or
computer. Forget the fancy wall connections. They cost big bucks and
make another weak spot in your connections

If you are building a two story or split level the upper floor is hard
to access after the fact. Intsall a couple pieces of plastic pipe from
attic to basement where you can put later cables through to the attic
and drop to the needed place via the interior walls. You will need a
to find a way to suspend the pipe so it doesn't fall through. Usually
an exact sized hole and have the flange (female end) hang in the hole.
Plug/tape the ends for insulation and bug purposes. If you ever need
another connection in the upper floor, attic diving will get your
there. Wear a dust filter mask!

Don't forget you back speakers and ceiling allows everybody to hear
with both ears. Mine bounce off the back wall for an enhanced delay
and lower sound image that is actually behind you.

Heavy speaker wire? Cheap extension cords with heavy gauge wire used
to be cheaper than buying the wire on a spool. Cut the ends off. Even
drill all the holes and put a pull string in for later use. Make it a
good one and pull another one with the new conductor, when you need
it.

Check out the price and life of those projector bulbs. $600 each and
2000 hours max life turned me off. YMMV There is a product called
"goop" that can be painted on walls to avoid the $2K for a projector
screen. Rim it with black felt trim so light spillover is not seen.

wrote in message $wy2.21062@edtnps90...
> Hi,
> I'm just starting to wire a new home and was wondering if there is a
> document covering best practices. I'm going to install audio
> distribution,
> home automation (insteon at this point), home theatre, security
> cameras,
> multiple computer network spots etc.
>
> I've considered making dual runs of Cat6 to most locations as that
> seems
> most flexible but the baluns are certainly expensive. An alarm
> installer
> suggested running 3 RG59 cables to the HT projector and 14 gauge
> speaker
> wire to all speaker runs.
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated or pointers to handy documents.
>
> Thanks.

Frank Olson · Joined: 31 Oct 2007 Posts: 53

John J. Bengii wrote:
> Don't bother with rg59 cables. Use RG-6 which is capable of satelite
> signal bandwidth also. Same connections.
>
> Dual cat5e (I think will handle 1Gbit) is a good idea. Just install
> plaster rings and staple a loop above it on the studs. Dummy plate the
> plaster rings off after drywall installation. If you ever need them,
> pull out the cable from the stud cavity and put a connector on both
> ends for use. If you don't ever use them, it will only cost you the
> wire and plaster ring (about $0.79). Leav lots of cable in the wall
> cavity for a direct connection to your entertainment server or
> computer. Forget the fancy wall connections. They cost big bucks and
> make another weak spot in your connections
>
> If you are building a two story or split level the upper floor is hard
> to access after the fact. Intsall a couple pieces of plastic pipe from
> attic to basement where you can put later cables through to the attic
> and drop to the needed place via the interior walls. You will need a
> to find a way to suspend the pipe so it doesn't fall through. Usually
> an exact sized hole and have the flange (female end) hang in the hole.
> Plug/tape the ends for insulation and bug purposes. If you ever need
> another connection in the upper floor, attic diving will get your
> there. Wear a dust filter mask!
>
>
> Don't forget you back speakers and ceiling allows everybody to hear
> with both ears. Mine bounce off the back wall for an enhanced delay
> and lower sound image that is actually behind you.
>
> Heavy speaker wire? Cheap extension cords with heavy gauge wire used
> to be cheaper than buying the wire on a spool. Cut the ends off. Even
> drill all the holes and put a pull string in for later use. Make it a
> good one and pull another one with the new conductor, when you need
> it.
>
> Check out the price and life of those projector bulbs. $600 each and
> 2000 hours max life turned me off. YMMV There is a product called
> "goop" that can be painted on walls to avoid the $2K for a projector
> screen. Rim it with black felt trim so light spillover is not seen.

Also... If the OP has any input at all as to where the attic access
point is, try to make it in an area of the roof that you can actually
stand up in (or where don't have to crouch and risk having the roofing
nails "hook you" or worse as you try to get inside). One customer built
a 8' x 8' square "landing pad" around the hatch. He achieved this by
nailing down 5/8" plywood on top of the joists (after filling the space
underneath with insulation batting). He also provided a couple of
convenient plug ins for work lights (which were controlled by a light
switch in the access closet). Nicest attic I ever worked in.

John J. Bengii · Joined: 22 Dec 2007 Posts: 74

Nice. I am beginning to think about those items in my house, in
progress. I have a stand up spot the full length of the house and
around the corner. I need to float some planks above the insulation
levels for full access. OTOH. mine is a one story and the walls are
usually always accessible with difficulty.

"Frank Olson" wrote in
message $DP1.5734@pd7urf2no...
> John J. Bengii wrote:
>> Don't bother with rg59 cables. Use RG-6 which is capable of
>> satelite signal bandwidth also. Same connections.
>>
>> Dual cat5e (I think will handle 1Gbit) is a good idea. Just install
>> plaster rings and staple a loop above it on the studs. Dummy plate
>> the plaster rings off after drywall installation. If you ever need
>> them, pull out the cable from the stud cavity and put a connector
>> on both ends for use. If you don't ever use them, it will only cost
>> you the wire and plaster ring (about $0.79). Leav lots of cable in
>> the wall cavity for a direct connection to your entertainment
>> server or computer. Forget the fancy wall connections. They cost
>> big bucks and make another weak spot in your connections
>>
>> If you are building a two story or split level the upper floor is
>> hard to access after the fact. Intsall a couple pieces of plastic
>> pipe from attic to basement where you can put later cables through
>> to the attic and drop to the needed place via the interior walls.
>> You will need a to find a way to suspend the pipe so it doesn't
>> fall through. Usually an exact sized hole and have the flange
>> (female end) hang in the hole. Plug/tape the ends for insulation
>> and bug purposes. If you ever need another connection in the upper
>> floor, attic diving will get your there. Wear a dust filter mask!
>>
>>
>> Don't forget you back speakers and ceiling allows everybody to hear
>> with both ears. Mine bounce off the back wall for an enhanced delay
>> and lower sound image that is actually behind you.
>>
>> Heavy speaker wire? Cheap extension cords with heavy gauge wire
>> used to be cheaper than buying the wire on a spool. Cut the ends
>> off. Even drill all the holes and put a pull string in for later
>> use. Make it a good one and pull another one with the new
>> conductor, when you need it.
>>
>> Check out the price and life of those projector bulbs. $600 each
>> and 2000 hours max life turned me off. YMMV There is a product
>> called "goop" that can be painted on walls to avoid the $2K for a
>> projector screen. Rim it with black felt trim so light spillover is
>> not seen.
>
>
> Also... If the OP has any input at all as to where the attic access
> point is, try to make it in an area of the roof that you can
> actually stand up in (or where don't have to crouch and risk having
> the roofing nails "hook you" or worse as you try to get inside).
> One customer built a 8' x 8' square "landing pad" around the hatch.
> He achieved this by nailing down 5/8" plywood on top of the joists
> (after filling the space underneath with insulation batting). He
> also provided a couple of convenient plug ins for work lights (which
> were controlled by a light switch in the access closet). Nicest
> attic I ever worked in.

Lewis Gardner · Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 28

John J. Bengii wrote:
> Don't bother with rg59 cables. Use RG-6 which is capable of satelite
> signal bandwidth also. Same connections.

Yep, use RG6. Is size is a problem check out mini-coax

> Forget the fancy wall connections. They cost big bucks and
> make another weak spot in your connections

Wall connections should terminate in a box. Leaving lots of wire loose
in stud cavities is invitation to damage by the insulation and drywall
crews.

Proper plates and connectors are cheap if you shop eBay. Look for brand
names. My favorite is Panduit. Their minicom line is the fastest to
terminate but is not "keystone" compatible.

> Intsall a couple pieces of plastic pipe from
> attic to basement where you can put later cables through to the attic
> and drop to the needed place via the interior walls.

Be sure to cap the pipe or you will likely have problems with the fire
inspector.

> Heavy speaker wire? Cheap extension cords with heavy gauge wire used
> to be cheaper than buying the wire on a spool.

Extension cord wire is not rated for in wall use, even if used for
speakers. Use the proper rated wire. In residential use CL2 and CL3 are
the most common.

Here is some info:

www.audioholics.com/education/cables/understanding-in-wall-speaker-video-and-audio-cable-ratings

RickH · Joined: 17 Oct 2007 Posts: 64

On Jan 1, 8:18 pm, st...@hometeck.info wrote:
> Hi,
> I'm just starting to wire a new home and was wondering if there is a
> document covering best practices. I'm going to install audio distribution,
> home automation (insteon at this point), home theatre, security cameras,
> multiple computer network spots etc.
>
> I've considered making dual runs of Cat6 to most locations as that seems
> most flexible but the baluns are certainly expensive. An alarm installer
> suggested running 3 RG59 cables to the HT projector and 14 gauge speaker
> wire to all speaker runs.
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated or pointers to handy documents.
>
> Thanks.

I home ran to 2 separate boxes/plates in each room.... Box one was
low on a wall where I would be likely to need TV hookup and also near
an outlet. Box two was near the entrance light switch area at switch
height. The switch box got 2 runs of cat 5e to it. The low boxes got
2 runs of RG6 (quad shield), and 2 more runs of cat 5e (voice/data),
these days I would probably do one run of cat5e and 2 runs of cat6 to
this box, (if your phone company indicates they can bring fiber to
your door then do fiber too, otherwise dont bother with fiber). I
also home ran a speaker feed to this low box, then from there branched
out to the wall speakers. This allows the wall speakers to be
assigned to a local stereo or switched to get fed from the central
speaker amp at the low box. As for using boxes vs mud plates, if its
an interior wall forget the box, just use a mud plate, if it's
exterior then use a deep box with a mud plate. I also ran a security
pair to every window and door. And I ran a combo power/rg59 cable to
higher wall locations where I wanted CCTV cameras (dont use rg59 for
anything else though use rg6qs). For motion sensors just run some
cat5 to stretegic high wall locations. For voice I daisy chained
within each room, but as mentioned I home ran to the low boxes first.
If I had to do it all over again I would have run some more 1.5 inch
plastic corrugated conduit to the areas where you know you will have a
lot of stereo equipment, because that field changes fast and you might
want to pull new cable there later. For all vertical drops in a 2
story home, find a wall that has the straightest drop all the way from
basement to attic. This is usually the wall with the staircase. You
dont want to have to deal with a bend in that pipe. For switch boxes
make sure your electrician uses real switch boxes and not just deep
outlet boxes. The mud rings for outlet boxes have rounded inside
corners that WILL NOT accomodate Insteon devices without grinding them
out, a major headache. I'm talking steel conduit and jboxes because
it's Chicago, your area probably allows Romex which I believe use
square cornered plastic boxes. Select a home run closet in the
basement or central location. Use standard 19 inch keystone blank
panels on a rack instead of those engineered systems like Leviton
has. All those engineered systems are way too tight to get your wire
into easily. You can get any jack imaginable as a keystone snap in
and just drop all your wire behind the rack. Do your labeling as you
go to save much time later tracing wires. You probably will not have
to terminate everything until you move in, depending on your inspector
and local municipal requirements. Any holes in wall plates have to be
fire caulked after the wire is pulled through the hole.

RickH · Joined: 17 Oct 2007 Posts: 64

On Jan 2, 10:24 am, RickH wrote:
> On Jan 1, 8:18 pm, st...@hometeck.info wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> > I'm just starting to wire a new home and was wondering if there is a
> > document covering best practices. I'm going to install audio distribution,
> > home automation (insteon at this point), home theatre, security cameras,
> > multiple computer network spots etc.
>
> > I've considered making dual runs of Cat6 to most locations as that seems
> > most flexible but the baluns are certainly expensive. An alarm installer
> > suggested running 3 RG59 cables to the HT projector and 14 gauge speaker
> > wire to all speaker runs.
>
> > Any thoughts would be appreciated or pointers to handy documents.
>
> > Thanks.
>
> and local municipal requirements. Any holes in wall plates have to be
> fire caulked after the wire is pulled through the hole.

By "wall plates" I meant the stud wall sill and top plates have to be
caulked in many towns after you drill a larger hole for wire, these
are fire stops.

Fergus McMenemie · Joined: 16 Nov 2007 Posts: 2

Pay the extra for any wiring you purchase and get the fancy coloured
stuff. Years later when you are extending or sorting anything it is much
simpler if you can imediatly identify alarm, data mains cables. It also
makes documenting the system clearer and simpler!

wrote:
> Hi,
> I'm just starting to wire a new home and was wondering if there is a
> document covering best practices. I'm going to install audio distribution,
> home automation (insteon at this point), home theatre, security cameras,
> multiple computer network spots etc.
>
> I've considered making dual runs of Cat6 to most locations as that seems
> most flexible but the baluns are certainly expensive. An alarm installer
> suggested running 3 RG59 cables to the HT projector and 14 gauge speaker
> wire to all speaker runs.
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated or pointers to handy documents.
>
> Thanks.

Robert L Bass · Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 101

"Fergus McMenemie" wrote:
>
> Pay the extra for any wiring you purchase and get the fancy
> coloured stuff. Years later when you are extending or sorting
> anything it is much simpler if you can imediatly identify alarm,
> data mains cables. It also makes documenting the system clearer and
> simpler!

That's one solution. Another which I have used for many years is
less expensive and IMO equally reliable. Buy a few Sharpie brand
fine point laundry markers. Before pulling each wire, write directly
on the jacket aboiut 2' from the end, "Master-Bedroom Left Window,"
or whatever. After pulling the cable to the control panel, write on
the jacket about 2' from the business end, "Alarm Zone 2," or
whatever.

We ran home runs for all sensors and devices and routinely bugged
every opening in large homes and businesses so it was fairly common
to have scores of cables to terminate at the end. This simple system
served us very well. The only issue with it is you need to wait a
few seconds for the ink to dry before pulling it through a tight
opening. However, for CAT5 and up you shouldn't pull through tight
openings anyway.

Side Note: Here's a handy way to keep cables neat and professional
looking in a basement or attic. Nail a 5/8" or larger drive ring
(looks like a heavy, galvanised nail with a hook on the side) into a
joist or rafter about 2' from the wall or ridge beam at one end of
the house. Do the same thing at the ther end. Using a chalk line
(~$5 at HD), snap a line between the two nails. Every 3' or so nail
another ring into a joist/rafter with the rings all pointing in the
same direction. Bring all related cables into the run of drive
rings, leaving a foot or so of slack where they join the run. Wrap
long cable ties 3-4 times around the bundle and the ding at one end
and pull the tie until it's snug but not compressing the cables. At
the other end do the same thing while gently pulling the cables just
taught enough to keep them straight. With 3 or more wraps the cable
ties will keep everything neat without undue tightness. Where cables
enter the run leave enougfh slack so they make a gentle turn.

We used to do it that way and I'd occasionally get compliments from
inspectors. One fellow grumbled, "It's too neat." :^)

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

==============================>
Bass Home Electronics
4883 Fallcrest Circle
Sarasota · Florida · 34233
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
Sales & Tech Support 941-925-8650
Customer Service 941-232-0791
Fax 941-870-3252
==============================>

John J. Bengii · Joined: 22 Dec 2007 Posts: 74

Nice stuff.

Don't do this with power wiring. It will be rejected if more than 3
cables are in a hole or bundle. All conductors must have free air
around them.

"Robert L Bass" wrote in message $Xo1.4935@trnddc06...
> Side Note: Here's a handy way to keep cables neat and professional
> looking in a basement or attic. Nail a 5/8" or larger drive ring
> (looks like a heavy, galvanised nail with a hook on the side) into a
> joist or rafter about 2' from the wall or ridge beam at one end of
> the house. Do the same thing at the ther end. Using a chalk line
> (~$5 at HD), snap a line between the two nails. Every 3' or so nail
> another ring into a joist/rafter with the rings all pointing in the
> same direction. Bring all related cables into the run of drive
> rings, leaving a foot or so of slack where they join the run. Wrap
> long cable ties 3-4 times around the bundle and the ding at one end
> and pull the tie until it's snug but not compressing the cables. At
> the other end do the same thing while gently pulling the cables just
> taught enough to keep them straight. With 3 or more wraps the cable
> ties will keep everything neat without undue tightness. Where
> cables enter the run leave enougfh slack so they make a gentle turn.
>
> We used to do it that way and I'd occasionally get compliments from
> inspectors. One fellow grumbled, "It's too neat." :^)
>
> --
>
> Regards,
> Robert L Bass
>
> ==============================>
> Bass Phishing for Fun
> 4883 Fallcrest Circle
> Sarasota · Florida · 34233
> http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
> Sales & Tech Support 941-925-8650
> Customer Service 941-232-0791
> Fax 941-870-3252
> ==============================>
>
>

Jim Hewitt · Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 2

Robert,

I can't quite picture it. Do you have link to a photo or drawing???

Thanks.

Jim

"Robert L Bass" wrote in message $Xo1.4935@trnddc06...
> "Fergus McMenemie" wrote:
>>
>> Pay the extra for any wiring you purchase and get the fancy coloured
>> stuff. Years later when you are extending or sorting anything it is much
>> simpler if you can imediatly identify alarm, data mains cables. It also
>> makes documenting the system clearer and simpler!
>
> That's one solution. Another which I have used for many years is less
> expensive and IMO equally reliable. Buy a few Sharpie brand fine point
> laundry markers. Before pulling each wire, write directly on the jacket
> aboiut 2' from the end, "Master-Bedroom Left Window," or whatever. After
> pulling the cable to the control panel, write on the jacket about 2' from
> the business end, "Alarm Zone 2," or whatever.
>
> We ran home runs for all sensors and devices and routinely bugged every
> opening in large homes and businesses so it was fairly common to have
> scores of cables to terminate at the end. This simple system served us
> very well. The only issue with it is you need to wait a few seconds for
> the ink to dry before pulling it through a tight opening. However, for
> CAT5 and up you shouldn't pull through tight openings anyway.
>
> Side Note: Here's a handy way to keep cables neat and professional looking
> in a basement or attic. Nail a 5/8" or larger drive ring (looks like a
> heavy, galvanised nail with a hook on the side) into a joist or rafter
> about 2' from the wall or ridge beam at one end of the house. Do the same
> thing at the ther end. Using a chalk line (~$5 at HD), snap a line
> between the two nails. Every 3' or so nail another ring into a
> joist/rafter with the rings all pointing in the same direction. Bring all
> related cables into the run of drive rings, leaving a foot or so of slack
> where they join the run. Wrap long cable ties 3-4 times around the bundle
> and the ding at one end and pull the tie until it's snug but not
> compressing the cables. At the other end do the same thing while gently
> pulling the cables just taught enough to keep them straight. With 3 or
> more wraps the cable ties will keep everything neat without undue
> tightness. Where cables enter the run leave enougfh slack so they make a
> gentle turn.
>
> We used to do it that way and I'd occasionally get compliments from
> inspectors. One fellow grumbled, "It's too neat." :^)
>
> --
>
> Regards,
> Robert L Bass
>
> ==============================>
> Bass Home Electronics
> 4883 Fallcrest Circle
> Sarasota · Florida · 34233
> http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
> Sales & Tech Support 941-925-8650
> Customer Service 941-232-0791
> Fax 941-870-3252
> ==============================>
>
>

Robert Green · Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 57

Jim,

This is one style of drive ring:

http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_DRV.htm

and below is the best I could do to show bunches of cables entering a larger
run of cable "between the rings." Obviously, the rings shown are different
than nail-in drive rings and the spacing shorter than the normal
joist-to-joist drive ring mountings, but the principle is the same.

http://cabletecs.com/phone-systems-gallery.html (bottom-most photo, bottom
right corner)

--
Bobby G.

"Jim Hewitt" wrote in message$kre$1@usenet01.boi.hp.com...
> Robert,
>
> I can't quite picture it. Do you have link to a photo or drawing???
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim
>
> "Robert L Bass" wrote in message
> $Xo1.4935@trnddc06...
> > "Fergus McMenemie" wrote:
> >>
> >> Pay the extra for any wiring you purchase and get the fancy coloured
> >> stuff. Years later when you are extending or sorting anything it is
much
> >> simpler if you can imediatly identify alarm, data mains cables. It also
> >> makes documenting the system clearer and simpler!
> >
> > That's one solution. Another which I have used for many years is less
> > expensive and IMO equally reliable. Buy a few Sharpie brand fine point
> > laundry markers. Before pulling each wire, write directly on the jacket
> > aboiut 2' from the end, "Master-Bedroom Left Window," or whatever.
After
> > pulling the cable to the control panel, write on the jacket about 2'
from
> > the business end, "Alarm Zone 2," or whatever.
> >
> > We ran home runs for all sensors and devices and routinely bugged every
> > opening in large homes and businesses so it was fairly common to have
> > scores of cables to terminate at the end. This simple system served us
> > very well. The only issue with it is you need to wait a few seconds for
> > the ink to dry before pulling it through a tight opening. However, for
> > CAT5 and up you shouldn't pull through tight openings anyway.
> >
> > Side Note: Here's a handy way to keep cables neat and professional
looking
> > in a basement or attic. Nail a 5/8" or larger drive ring (looks like a
> > heavy, galvanised nail with a hook on the side) into a joist or rafter
> > about 2' from the wall or ridge beam at one end of the house. Do the
same
> > thing at the ther end. Using a chalk line (~$5 at HD), snap a line
> > between the two nails. Every 3' or so nail another ring into a
> > joist/rafter with the rings all pointing in the same direction. Bring
all
> > related cables into the run of drive rings, leaving a foot or so of
slack
> > where they join the run. Wrap long cable ties 3-4 times around the
bundle
> > and the ding at one end and pull the tie until it's snug but not
> > compressing the cables. At the other end do the same thing while gently
> > pulling the cables just taught enough to keep them straight. With 3 or
> > more wraps the cable ties will keep everything neat without undue
> > tightness. Where cables enter the run leave enougfh slack so they make
a
> > gentle turn.
> >
> > We used to do it that way and I'd occasionally get compliments from
> > inspectors. One fellow grumbled, "It's too neat." :^)
> >
> > --
> >
> > Regards,
> > Robert L Bass
> >
> > ==============================>
> > Bass Home Electronics
> > 4883 Fallcrest Circle
> > Sarasota · Florida · 34233
> > http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
> > Sales & Tech Support 941-925-8650
> > Customer Service 941-232-0791
> > Fax 941-870-3252
> > ==============================>
> >
> >
>
>

Robert L Bass · Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 101

"Robert Green" wrote:
>
> This is one style of drive ring:

Thanks, Robert. Those are the same drive rings except they are 1/2"
whereas I use 5/8 or larger and their prices are a tad high.

Also, you don't really need them on every joist. That's overkill
IMO. Just place one ring every 3-4 feet and it will be fine.

I should have mentioned that the job will be neater if you bang the
nails into the corner of the joists at a 45º angle rather than
straight up into the bottom edge. That will place the ring nicely to
carry the main run while joining cables to the run with the least
bend.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

==============================>
Bass Home Electronics
4883 Fallcrest Circle
Sarasota · Florida · 34233
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
Sales & Tech Support 941-925-8650
Customer Service 941-232-0791
Fax 941-870-3252
==============================>

TV pre-wire question..... Hi All, I'm prewiring a new addition for a wall-mounted flat screen TV. The cable box, TiVo, DVD player, etc., will be located in a cabinet against another wall. My question is what cable(s) will need to be run between the video source (the "boxes"), and

3-wire Garage door switch I am looking for a 3-wire Garage door switch sensor similar to the Sentrol 2207A but without the Sentrol price. I need both NO and NC for a specialty application. Bob S.

Home Financing We finance your home automation package and pay back to *YOU* a 20% fee! -- 621 NW 53RD ST - STE 240; Boca Raton, FL. 33487 We finance *anyone* 110% "The trick is in tricking the Lender; we're the best !! " {C} 954-242-5638; {P} 561-

Financing Your Home And HA We finance your home automation package and pay back to *YOU* a 22.5% fee! -- 621 NW 53RD ST - STE 240; Boca Raton, FL. 33487 We finance *anyone* 110% "The trick is in tricking the Lender; we're the best !! " {C} 954-242-5638; {P} 56

home automation in UML hai..... suggest some titbits of how to start a home automation project !!